swami had suggested a place near mulki when i had told him that i wanted to spend new year’s eve and day somewhere chilled out without druggies and techno freaks. “it’s a surfing ashram”. i was still trying to understand what a surfing ashram could look like when we turned up there in a rickshaw from mulki bus-stand.
the guru was not home... he was at his other ashram in mexico. but the indian kids he had adopted were running the show here. the eldest showed us our room... we were lucky, one couple hadn’t shown up. but i was ready to pitch the tent in case they did.
swami knew the guru, an american surfer living in india over 35 years, from way back, and had known the kids when they were still knee-high to a grasshopper. they greeted him with due respect. the ashram took paying guests in its alter ego of a surf-school, but we were there as ‘pilgrims’ visiting the ‘ashram’. that first evening, we took a walk until the shiva temple and back again. so peaceful and stress-free.
in the morning, we crossed in a dinghy to the beach side across the river where the coast was. and whilst the others surfed, swami and i took a walk down the beach, eventually coming across a fishing village. the boat were not far out from the coastline, and there were some guys squatting on the beach looking seaward. ah yes, the indians having a different notion as to what the beach is for. “it’s their toilet”, swami pointed out. the walk through the village was very interesting, to truly see the life in this small community. people were genuinely surprised to see us there... for sure it wasn’t on the tourist trail!
we got back to the others after taking breakfast near the sand dunes, and when they finished surfing, we went back for lunch and siesta. after dinner, the boys made a small fire on the jetty and played music past the midnight hour, celebrating the start of the new year. for me, i was glad it wasn’t so noisy and there was only the sound of a few fireworks around. next time, i will really try to find a silent place away from everything.
new year’s day, we had planned to go, but i felt so tired after brunch that i told swami that we should stay another day. he agreed immediately. so another chill out day! we got to know the others staying at the ashram a little better, and in the evening we all went to the temple on the other side of mulki. another procession of the deity around the streets and the lighting of the small ‘lamps’ now and then when some of the householders came out with their ‘lamps’ to be lit.
we walked in the dark back to the main road and got rickshaws back. and after dinner, we watched a documentary about the kumbh mela, the largest gathering of people in the world.
in the morning, we said our goodbyes and back at the main road, got the bus to mangalore. big busy city! we soon sorted out breakfast, and a train ticket for swami to the station near amritapuri and amma. and i got a ticket for the overnight bus to hospet. swami didn’t have to wait too long at the station and got his train. i was a bit sad to see him go; i had learnt a lot from him.
the semi-sleeper seat i got was not too bad... i got a little sleep, and we got into hospet around 7am. a good breakfast of a masala dosa and uttapam before taking the bus to hampi... my favourite place in all india... so far.
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