ajmer and pushkar

bandra terminus in mumbai was being rebuilt and it looked pretty shambolic and dirty, just like any other railway station in india. no indication of where i had to get my train, but a quick look-in at the station superintendant’s office got me to the right platform.

i got to marwar junction without much fuss early the next morning and waited for the connecting train to ajmer. a lot of people wrapped up in their blankets and sleeping on the floor. the guy in the ticket office lounging around at the back didn’t seem too eager to serve me... until i opened my mouth. the sound of an alien english accent was enough for him to come running... in fact, he was all smiles and kindness as if he couldn’t do enough for me. i thought about sleeping on the floor too but then decided to head into the waiting room. it was a cold chilling morning and i was in a grumpy mood, complaining each time someone forgot to close the door behind them.

the unreserved ticket meant i was squashed up in the carriage with the others, but it was only an hour or so to ajmer. and then i had to fight to get off before the masses got on. the narrow lanes around the mosque were full of pilgrims and it was a struggle to get through to the other end, and the ruin of a mosque. from here, i decided to walk to get back to the other side of town, but the ‘parking-wallah’ to whom i asked directions told me it was a long walk. he tried to find someone who could take me after they paid for the parking, and eventually i got a lift. he turned out to be off-duty policeman and i told him i was going to pushkar. he dropped me off on the pushkar road and i started hitching. it was hot and dusty and no sign of a lift. a bus came by... and stopped. and i jumped on.

pushkar... holy pigrimage place. a serene lake and a relaxed atmosphere. i found a quiet hotel after circling the lake a couple of times, and although the room was a bit grubby, it was cheap and cheerful. i wandered around and took many photos.

someone tried to scam me into buying a pushkar ‘passport’ but i was wise to their game. there was a free concert and theatre show in the square along the main drag in front of the main ghat. very colourful and entertaining. just got annoyed with the guys bossing everyone to get up and move and sit where they wanted.

and then they was a free performance of indian classical dancing put on by the shakti dance and music school at the old rangji temple. a beautiful temple and grounds, it was a good setting for the show.