i met some other travellers on the train also going to
bodhgaya. and together with another couple of travellers i had met at the
platform at varanasi, we took a rickshaw to bodhgaya. the french girl marion
knew a place to stay away from the centre. it was a little difficult to find,
but asking at a shop, the guy there happened to be a good friend of the guy
whose ‘hostel’ it was. actually, it was just rooms at his family’s house, newly
constructed and so very clean and comfortable. we got lucky again.
bodhgaya was scorching hot too. we got to the temple early
in the morning to avoid the midday heat, and even at that hour, the mercury was pushing
30 degrees. the temple and the bodhi tree... the focal point of bodhgaya. the
legendary place where the buddha attained enlightenment. the place was
peaceful, in contrast to the bedlam outside, with monks sitting near the tree in meditation. inside the temple,
there was a small statue of a sitting buddha, and the carvings around the
temple illustrated the story of the buddha from when he left his home to when
he became enlightened. some tourists were seated near the tree, waiting for a
leaf to fall so as to have a treasured souvenir of their visit. failing that,
there were people selling boxed sets of bodhi leaves outside the temple.
somehow, i was at the right place at the right time to get my authentic
souvenir!
the story of the buddha is certainly worth of admiration and
veneration. but buddhism, like any other religion, has become trapped in ritual and
blind faith. the essence of his message has been lost, and the means to
salvation has been reduced to blind recitations of scriptures and meditations.
i wonder how many of the monks and lay buddhists that were there had even come
close to achieving a sense of inner peace, much less the ultimate goal of
enlightenment and the end of suffering. maybe i am little too harsh... i should not criticise and i don't mean to. everyone must choose their way, and there are an endless number of paths to the same goal.
the dutch couple left for gaya, and marion and i were left
for a couple of days more. we watched an animated version of the life of the
buddha... a little bit informative and a little bit entertaining but certainly
not worth the entrance fee. we visited a few other temples... . thai, sri
lankan, vietnamese... and a few others. the bhutanese one was definitely our
favourite & the japanese one the worst, it was colourless and dour but it did
provide a free school for the local kids nearby.
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